The heart of Tsuen Wan perpetually reverberates with technicolour activity.The hammering thud of cleaver through scarlet meat as delivery trolleys clatter by. Men perched around tables debating noisily, interrupted only by shouting waitresses clacking down bowls of steaming food, whilst silent septuagenarians forage for cardboard. Here, commerce dictates pace. But follow the signs for Yi Pei Square, step behind the façade of the bustling streets, and it is a technicolour oasis that greets you. The ground is blue like a cartoon ocean, and the urban soundtrack sparkles with the sound of children playing.